Another option is to start a buying club of your own. Most of the food and herb wholesalers have order minimums, ranging on average from $100 - $500. Most charge 5-8% for truck shipping charges, most do not charge sale tax unless they are in your state. Some companies deliver to your area every 4 weeks, some 6 or 8 weeks. Most will ship UPS, but again, the bulk items are more costly with added UPS shipping. You should inquire as to these buying requirements before you decide to purchase from a company.

Some things to consider before starting a buying club:

Will you require dues to cover these costs? If dealing with people you do not know very well, you may require them to pay for their order in advance, then you will need to refund any overpayment for items that are out of stock and not delivered, or ask for additional money for any price increases. You might choose have a separate club bank account to make things easier.

I know this sounds complicated, but it really isn't once you get established. In our family co-op we started years ago, we do all the work, beginning to end, (even carrying the order to the car for them) and we charge 10% above wholesale. What we do is: gather each family's order by phone, enter that order into the computer, place a Master Order with the wholesaler by FAX or phone, meet the truck, pay the truck driver, unload the items, adjusting each invoice to reflect out of stock undelivered items, or any prices increases, print out each invoice, separate orders by family, be available for 2 days for the families to pick up their order, carry the order to their car, and receive their payment and deposit it the separate account.

If you are starting a new buying club, our recommendation is to split up all the responsibilities and costs, asking for a small monthly or yearly dues to cover supplies. This way, no one person or family has all the work and all the families share equally in obtaining natural foods, organic, bulk, and specialty items at a fraction of what they cost in the health food stores.

Here is list of wholesalers that we have compiled. You may contact them directly to ask about purchase requirements. When we were looking, we ordered ALL the catalogs of the companies that delivered to our area, we spread them out and compared items, shipping costs, minimums, and products we were interested in. this helped us a great deal to choose the right company to deal with.

BUYING CLUB WAREHOUSES (CO-OPS)

AZURE STANDARD
79709 Dufer Valley Rd.
Dufer, OR 97021
541-467-2230

BLOOMING PRAIRIE WAREHOUSE
2340 Heinz Rd
Iowa City, IA 52240
800-323-2131

BLOOMING PRAIRIE NATURAL FOODS 510 Kasota Ave SE
Minneapolis, MN 55414
800-322-8324 (in MN)
800-328-8241 (outside MN)

COUNTRY LIFE NATURAL FOODS
PO Box 489
Pullman MI 49450
616-236-5011

FEDERATION OF OHIO RIVER COOPERATIVES (FORC) 320 Outerbelt St, Suite E
Columbus, OH 43213
614-861-2446

FRONTIER COOPERATIVE HERBS
3021 78th St
PO Box 299
Norway, IA 52318
1-800-669-3275

HUDSON VALLEY FEDERATION OF FOOD CO-OPS 6 Noxton Rd
Poughkeepsie, NY 12603
914-473-5400

MOUNTAIN PEOPLES WAREHOUSE
12745 Earhart Avenue
Auburn, CA 95602
800-679-6733

MOUNTAIN PEOPLE'S NORTHWEST
4005 Sixth Ave. South
Seattle, WA 98108
800-462-0211 (in WA)
800-336-8872 (outside WA)

NORTH FARM COOPERATIVE
204 Regas Road
Madison, WI 53714.
800-236-5880

NORTHEAST COOPERATIVES
PO Box 8188, Quinn Rd
Brattleboro, VT 05304
802-257-5856

OZARK CO-OPERATIVE WAREHOUSE
Box 1528
Fayettville, AR 72702 501-521-4920 (2667)

SOMETHING BETTER NATURAL FOODS 614 Capitol Ave. NE
Battle Creek, Michigan 49017
616-965-1199

TUSCON COOPERATIVE WAREHOUSE 350 South Toole Ave
Tuscon AZ 85701
602-884-9951

WALTON FEED
135 North 10th (PO Box 307)
Montpelier, Idaho 83254 800-847-0465 or 208-847-0465

There is a simple way to find a co-op in your area, it only takes one SASE (Self Address Stamped Envelope)

CDS (Co-op Directory Service) is a FREE information service available to anyone inquiring about co-ops and wholesale companies. CDS will send you a free packet of information with your SASE, including the names of companies that deliver to your area, why you want to join or start a food buying club, and more useful information that I enjoyed reading. Kris Olsen provides a wonderful service to the consumer seeking to eat better and do it within a family's budget. So, before you make those calls, get the CDS packet, and you'll be better equipped to ask the right questions of the wholesalers.

Co-op Directory Services
ATTN: Kris Olsen
919 21st Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55404
(no phone calls please)

If you would like more information on the Whisper Mill or other grain mills, the Bosch Universal Kitchen System, bread machines, cook books, herb books or any other products for healthy families, please feel free to write or e-mail. A new catalog will be forthcoming after their move in the next few months, so if you've requested a catalog…thank you for your patience!!

Heart 'n Home Products
PO Box 442
Black Mountain, NC 28711
Credit card orders toll-free: 1-888-875-BAKE (2253) Questions: 1-704-669-8773
E-mail: HeartHome4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/hearthome4

Vickilynn also moderates a free Christian e-mail loop in automated Digest form every weekday concerning healthy foods. If you would like to subscribe to the Whole Foods Discussion Digest, please e-mail Vickilynn at WFDigest@aol.com

Vickilynn and Tim write a regular column for the women's magazine called "An Encouraging Word". This Christian women's magazine truly gives an encouraging word for today! Chock full of inspiring articles, Bible studies, practical helps, tips, resources, recipes and of course Tim and Vickilynn's regular column "You Can Make it at Home". US subscription rates are $16.00 for 8 issues per year.

To request a sample issue for $3.50:
An Encouraging Word magazine
PO Box 599
Idabel, OK 74745
1-888-814-0607
e-mail: AEWMag@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/aewmag

© 1997 Tim and Vickilynn Haycraft All Rights reserved

Avoiding Costly Homebuying Mistakes
Knowledge is Power!
by Lawrence M. Kostaneski, PE
TOCLPress@aol.com

Those of you who read my articles in the 9/15 and 10/13 editions of The Dollar Stretcher have a sense for the technical complexities inherent in a home. Those of you who went to the book's web site are probably borderline overwhelmed. Yes, there are an amazing number of issues to consider when buying a home. But during my 10 year stint as a City Engineer, I was surprised and a little disappointed to see how many people bought a house with little or no understanding of these technical issues: often to their extreme annoyance in discovering that they had very low water pressure, had frequent flooding problems, were assessed for a sidewalk or road, etc.

This edition's subject deals with this very issue, but in general terms.

There is no better way to avoid expensive mistakes than asking questions. You must gather information relevant to the contemplated purchase if you want to get the best value for your dollar. People do this all the time when buying a car, but seem to think a house is somehow immune from defects.

Previous articles dealt with flooding, and soils with a tendency to damage a home. These are just two of the many technical issues that can cause a great deal of anguish and expense. All of the various potential problems associated with a house are easily catalogued and systematically evaluated. The trick is to know what the issues are, arrange them in a way that allows accurate evaluation, and knowing what agency to contact.

Regardless of the people involved in the sale of the house, there is NO substitute for objective information from someone who is not connected with the pending transaction.

The best source of information is the local government agency responsible for residential development. It may be necessary to contact multiple agencies, but usually one agency has overall responsibility and can direct you to the other agencies or departments that have the specific information you need.

This source is extremely important. The happiness and safety of your family depends on knowing as much about a house as possible, and one of the best sources for this information is the responsible agency.

Here is an example of how this works. A couple from Boston came to my office and wanted to know if the house they were interested in had a FEMA flood designation. I asked for the address and when they told me, I knew the answer immediately: Yes ! I could tell they were shocked. They had already put down earnest money on the house. Then they told me the rest of the story. They had specifically asked the realtor this same question and were told, "No". For whatever reason, they decided to contact the local agency. A good thing, considering the impact from this information.

The short ending to this story is that I contacted the owner of the real estate agency - who was a friend of mine - cleared up the "misunderstanding", and learned later that this couple got their earnest money back.. I would guess they chose a different realtor, although I didn't talk to them afterward.

Needless to say, I was happy to help these people: it's what I got paid to do. The sad part is that over the years I talked to scores of buyers about this very same subject, who didn't think to ask first: suffice it to say that these conversations were something less than pleasant. But there was nothing I could do. A couple of these people ended up in court over the issue.

This is just one example of the myriad of technical issues that require careful analysis. In this case, a simple 15 minute visit prevented this couple from learning an old truth the hard way: buyer beware. My guess is that they were well aware of this adage. Hopefully, you will consider this when you buy your next home. Remember, having good luck with your first experience is no guarantee.

Mr. Kostaneski writes about the physical aspects of homebuying. He is the author of "A Home Buyer's Guide To Reality" and a regular contributor to The Dollar Stretcher. For more information about his book visit Home Buyer's Guide.

Price Books and Beyond
Two Reader Comments and a Response
by Louise Wulf
wulfx@ibm.net

Dear Louise,
Thank you for the great article in the Dollar Stretcher. I have a question for you, if I may. Regarding a Price Book: In our city, they have been known to arrest people and take them to court, if you go into a grocery store to make a price book. They think you are working for the competition, and they call it industrial spying. Do you have any suggestions on how to avoid this problem? The latest case involved a woman whose husband had been laid off, and they really were desperately trying to devise a new household budget based on their newly-but budget. They still took her to court.
Thanks for any ideas you have. I am kind of timid about getting busted!
Trish K, Claire Kathleen's mom (5/17/97)

Louise,
You have described how I stock up in your article. The only thing I can add is using an Excel program is a great help! I can check the column in Inventory (on Excel) which tells how much I need to reach the goal. If I want to keep at least 15 jars of spaghetti sauce on hand. The computer will tell me in a moment how much I have and even how much I need to reach my goal. It tells me what I have paid for it in the past.

Each time we take an item from the basement, we record it on the computer. It only takes about 15 seconds to find the item and record it. We leave the Excel program open all day so we don't feel like it's too much work to do it.

I began using this method because I know good stewardship involves being accountable for what we have. When I started looking at my purchases not as just buying a few items, but I am responsible during my life time to spend thousands of dollars on purchases. That got my attention. I took one item. Considered the cost and multiplied that by a life time of buying. Wow! I spend a lot of money.

I tried years ago to follow this system on paper, but found it too time consuming. But when I told my husband what I wanted to do on the computer, he helped me set the system up. It didn't take long to set up, program wise. I spent a few days inventorying every thing in my cupboards.

I have one cupboard that is my "working cupboard." If I take one quart of honey out of storage and put it into the working cupboard, I record a 1 under the minus column for that date on the row marked "honey". If I buy 2 quarts of honey, a 2 goes under the addition column for that day on the "honey" row. I don't need to record every cup and tablespoon of honey that I use once the jar is in the working cupboard. At the end of the year I know how many quarts of honey I purchased, what I spent on honey, and how much we used.

The most time consuming part is faithfully setting down at the computer when I bring in bags of groceries or boxes of co-op items. Every thing is recorded before it is put away. Having it set in the office is motivation to get it done immediately. If one of the kids wants a jar of peanut butter because the one in the working cupboard is all gone, they have to ask before they can take anything out of the basement. And before I allow them to take it, I record it. That way we don't forget and end up with incorrect figures.

I just got the system started a few months ago, so I haven't had the privilege of looking at a full year yet, but I'm really looking forward to it.

We enjoy using the system, and don't feel enslaved to it at all. I think it is practical for every day use, but is also practice for hard times like job loss. I seldom buy any thing now unless it is on sale. And if I have a busy week and can't find time to make to the store or someone is sick, it's no problem. I have what I need for caring the sick on hand from medication to special items the kids want when they don't feel well. I also have a cupboard where I tuck away special treats that my husband and kids like and items for when company drops in. It doesn't get eaten because it isn't in a cupboard where it would be seen. However, it would show up on the computer if I did a search. (My freezer is also on the inventory. It saves digging for some thing I used months ago and forgot.)

This system is very helpful when keeping track of stocking up. Thanks for putting the method on the net. I'll save it for my children.
Linda

Dear Trish and Linda,
Good grief! What a sad situation. Other DS readers have reported the same hostile practices. You'll need to be careful how you go about this, then. Personally, I've never taken my price book into stores. I've never felt I needed to. If I want to record prices or other info, I write on the back of the envelope I carry my store coupons in. (I usually paperclip or staple my shopping list on it, too and use a pencil to check things off, so I already have a pen or pencil and paper out in sight, and an "excuse" for having them.) I write as I slowly push the cart along, so I'm not standing in front of any one section for a long time. In short, I avoid looking like I'm recording prices. I keep my purse in the child seat, propping it up near the cart handle so I can use it for a "desk". You could use a small note pad with a hard back for your shopping list and have plenty of room to add info.

A lot of my price book is based on the store ads and my cash register receipts. These items belong to you and can be marked up and poured over at leisure. Between the two, you'll get the best deals available for the items you buy regularly, and you'll soon catch on to the sale cycles for the items that make up YOUR staples; the things that have the most impact on your food budget. Since you're needing to be cautious, give yourself extra time to feel your way along and you'll eventually find a system that works for you and doesn't make you a target for unwanted attention. It will give you great satisfaction to find a way to work around them and save money doing it!

Some DS readers have reported that they try to create a more consumer (and price book!) friendly atmosphere by taking opportunities to chat with the clerks and managers of their most-frequently used store, perhaps working up to explaining what they're doing and why. The grocery chains in your area sound pretty militant, but ultimately consumers rule, so don't loose heart. Change may come slowly, but this doesn't sound legal to me and someone is sure to challenge the practice in court one of these days. In the meantime, what they don't know won't hurt them!
Louise

Editor's note: Have you been challenged by a store for recording prices? Please let us know. Send us the name of the store and which city and state it's located in. A brief explanation would also be helpful. We'll try to pass this information on to others. Perhaps if these stores lose our business they'll get the idea!

Ask Bob: The Automotive Answer Guy?
Tire Pressure
by Bob DeP
AskBob@stretcher.com

Bob,
Should tire pressure always be 35 psi no matter what kind of tire you have? I have had cars in the past that were rated much higher and now I have a Ford F150 that has BIG tires on it and I am wondering should the pressure still be 35 psi? Thanks for your answer.
Michael W.

Mike,
There are two places on your car where you car find the proper tire pressure. The first place will be on a sticker usually found on the driver side door pillar. The other place is on the tire itself. Not all tires are created equal, so the same pressure can NOT be assumed for all tires. Proper tire inflation is key to not only longer tire life, for better fuel economy. You see, when a tire is under inflated, too much rubber is in contact with the road. This can be seen by the bottom wearing out unevenly (the sides are worn but the center is not). Over inflated tires have the usually sign of the center being worn out and the sides okay (assuming you have no alignment problems). Incorrect tire pressure may actually cost your 2-3 miles per gallon. So you can see, that correct tire pressure will not only save you money by helping your tires last longer, but by saving you gas as well. Now, one slight point, some people like to under inflated a tire by 2-3 psi in the winter. The claim is that it helps grab the road better when it is covered in snow. I have no documentation to prove this, so take it at your own disposal.

Good Luck!
Drive Safely! Bob
The Auto Answer Guy?

Bob answers your auto questions. If you have a question for Bob just sent it to him at: AskBob@stretcher.com. Visit the Car Care Clinic.

TIPS, QUIPS, QUOTES AND QUESTIONS

I have a question about how one's credit is established. My husband and I had excellent credit for the past 40 years. He died this summer and recently I was denied credit by several banks (though a third picked up the loan I requested). It appears to me that our good credit doesn't automatically pass over to me at his death. Am I right? I have a few credit cards in my name; others were in both our names; bank accounts were in both names (now changed) and so on. I was curious about these denied credits so I sent for my credit record and it looks like only things in my name or a few joint items are included and it was all of recent vintage.
Sincerely,
An avid Reader

I am looking for fun, frugal date ideas for myself and my husband. Also family activities. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dionne

After cooking bacon or fish I add about a 1/4 cup of vinegar to one or two cups of water and heat in the same pan, if possible - this removes the odor from the pan as well. Simmer for at least fifteen minutes. You will notice a strong vinegar smell at first, but when you are done the smell should be gone.
--Jennifer

The reader who wants to get rid of smells while cooking can try simmering some vanilla flavoring with water on the stove top.
--anon.

Ranji your range hood is not vented outside like it should be , but you may be able to purchase a charcoal activated filter to replace the existing one in your range hood! Take the filter you have with the make and model to an appliance repair center and see if they can provide you with one.
--Sandee M.

I looked everywhere for stainless steel wire to repair a marble cheese slicer I received a as wedding gift. Finally my husband suggested a Guitar string. For $.85 I have enough wire to repair that one and several other hand held ones.
--Maria del G.

I don't know if any of your other readers have realized this, but I have come to the realization that warehouse club shopping saves me money in two ways. Not only do I get to save on the price of my purchases, I also save money because I am not making as many trips to the grocery store and Wal-Mart and am not picking up all those little impulse buys that soon add up to a big bill. While I might buy a $3.00 box of Product X on a whim at a "regular" store, I'm not nearly as likely to buy a bundle pack of the same product if it costs $10.00, even though the unit price per box may be cheaper. In the last 2 months since renewing a membership at Sam's Club, we've been to Wal-Mart only 3 or 4 times, whereas before we went at least once a week just to pick up one or two things and very often came out with five things...or more.
Yours in thriftiness,
Melanie E.
Montgomery, AL

(editor's note: Last week we passed along an idea that suggested transferring a child's favorite story character to a shirt for a Christmas gift. An alert reader pointed out that this would violate the copyright laws. Although I doubt that a major company would mind one t-shirt, it is a violation and I wish I would have caught it before including it in our tips section!)

I Would like to:

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