Painting a Countertop
We've been trying to paint over a laminated particleboard counter that we don't like and are having some trouble getting the results we want. We've been using a white latex enamel and painted several thin layers with good results. We then decided to put a protective coat of polyurethane, but it immediately yellowed. Now it's all starting to flake with minimal abrasion. Any advice--especially on what would make a good protective clear coat?
Please don't get upset, but the bad news is that you must strip the polyurethane from the countertop and start over. Applying paint remover is the easiest method, and it does not affect the laminate. You should be careful near the edges since it will affect the contact adhesive. Also follow all the warnings regarding ventilation and physical safety on the label of the product.
You cannot apply polyurethane over any finish except virgin polyurethane. That is,
polyurethane that has not been treated, sealed or waxed. Other surfaces don't give the polyurethane enough grip for it to survive for very long. If you use quality paint you do not need to apply any protective finish over it.
Latex paint is not a great choice for any surface that suffers possible abrasion, such as a countertop. I also loathe using latex paint on bookshelves or other surfaces that are going to have objects placed on them. Instead, a better choice is oil based "alkyd" paint. Alkyd paints are the finest of the oil paints. They dry very hard, are washable and about as abrasion resistant as you can get in a paint. The only better paint you could apply in my opinion would be epoxy paint, which is a two-part paint that chemically sets instead of drying. However, they are not as easy to find and quite a bit more expensive. I have used polyurethane paints a few times, but I am not convinced they are really any better than alkyd paints in durability.
With care and gentle treatment, the painted surface should last years. The surface will never be as tough as the original. Should you get some dings or scratches, the thing that most differentiates latex paint from oil is that latex paints do not sand well, so it is virtually impossible to smooth out those scratches or marks. Oil paints, on the other hand, sand beautifully and you can restore a smooth surface (prior to repainting) without any filling or paint stripping... again
Have a small home repair question for THE NATURAL HANDYMAN? Just click here www.naturalhandyman.com/aitikia
For more home repair information, visit NH's growing list of original home repair articles and quality links www.naturalhandyman.com
If this information has been valuable to you, please consider making a small donation to support NH's free service to the home repair community! For more information, please visit our "Friends" page www.naturalhandyman.com/friends
The Natural Handyman Site Directory
- Home Repair Articles www.naturalhandyman.com/iip
- Home Repair Links Library www.naturalhandyman.com/linkslibrary
- NH's Bookshop www.naturalhandyman.com/bookshop
- Find a handyman at www.naturalhandyman.com/network
- Win unique home repair gifts and prizes at www.naturalhandyman.com/contest
Please read the important copyright and disclaimer information is located at www.naturalhandyman.com/copyright
Also in Home
- 5 ways your house can make you go broke
- 5 simple and affordable luxuries for your home
- 12 ways to lower heating bills
- Will my insurance spike if I rent out my basement?
- Why pay extra toward mortgage principal?
- 5 tips to sell a home before buying another
- 6 ways to stock your "man cave" for under $500
- 6 home projects that don't pay for themselves
- Should I refinance my home equity line?